Determining your skin type is not as easy as it sounds! Because are those bumps really acne or just a result of an over sensitive skin? And what actually is the difference between a "dehydrated" and a "dry" skin? You just have to google it and you become completely disheartened. If you have been able to find out what your skin type is, you then need to start searching for suitable products . But don't worry help is on its way! Today is part 3 in the mini course "know your skin":-)
I have written previously about dry skin and sensitive skin, and now for the first time about oily skin.
Do you have oily skin?
An increase in sebum production makes your skin - or a certain part of your skin - more oily. For some people it is obvious that they have oily skin. Throughout the course of the day the skin becomes increasingly shiny and you just have to press your nose against glass and you'll need more than a squirt of glass cleaner to wipe it off. But it is not so obvious for people with combination skin. People with over dry and irritated skin can also have an increased sebum production due to de-greasing skincare products. If you suspect that you belong to this group, then I would like to refer you to my earlier blogs on this topic and the skin analysis that I have designed.
Find a skincare regime to suit your skin! If you use unsuitable creams your pores will become clogged more quickly. Over cleansing your skin and using harsh products dries your skin out which in turn leads to an increase in sebum production…
- Find a mild cleanser which is preferably non-foaming. A foaming cleanser often contains more 'detergents' and cleaning agents. This may feel nice directly after washing but is not best for the long term. It is not only the dirt and over produced oil that is removed but also the skin's natural oil which it needs. As a consequence your skin produces extra sebum which only makes your skin more oily. A cleanser which contains too much oil is not nice for oily skin either.
- Avoid harsh toners with alcohol, mint or other fresh smelling substances that make your skin tingle. This is not a good sign! For oily skin a toner with soothing and anti-inflammatory substances is very important! These can even be used in place of the moisturiser on the most oily parts of the face whilst still caring for your skin!
- For more oily skin an exfoliant is a must. Using an exfoliant prevents the blocking of the sebaceous glands. The best choice is salicylic acid. This ingredient penetrates deep into your pores and keeps them clean. Dead skin cells and sebum are gently removed: the skin becomes fresh and radiant looking. It even has an anti-inflammatory effect.
- Use a moisturiser only on the more dry parts of the face. On the more oily parts a toner containing active ingredients can even be used instead of a cream. A moisturiser can make oily skin too shiny and even cause problems such as spots. Choose a water-based moisturiser (with aqua as the first ingredient on the INCI list). Silicone based substances such as dimethicone are also suitable for the more oily skin.
- Use just a light SPF (aqua should be listed first on the ingredients list) .
- If you do want to apply a mask occasionally, then use a clay mask. You can buy clay powder at a health food shop; it will save you money. Another good option for oily skin is a papaya-honey mask. You can see how to make this on my blog.
Substances for an oily skin
Search for ingredients which are good for an oily skin. These are substances such as liquorice root extract (glycyrrhiza glabra) and green tea, but also papaya, quercetin and beta-glucan. Vitamin C is also a very suitable ingredient, as is niacinamide which among other things controls sebum. Irritating ingredients such as alcohol or mint are best avoided; they make your skin become dried out and cause premature ageing. You are also better off leaving out the following substances if you have oily skin. They can block the pores:
- Acetylated lanolin alcohol
- C12-C15 alcohols benzoate
- Coconut oil
- Decaglyceryl decaoleate
- Decyl oleate
- Grape seed oil
- Hexylene glycol
- Hydrogenated lanolin
- Isocetyl stearate
- Isopropyl isostearate
- Isopropyl lanolate
- Isopropyl linoleate
- Isopropyl myristate
- Isopropyl palmitate
- Isostearic acid
- Lanolic acid
- Myreth 3 myristate
- Myristyl lactate
- Myristyl myristate
- Myristyl propionate
- Oleic acid
- Oleyl alcohol
- Peach kernel oil
- Sweet almond oil
Oily skin has feelings too!
Oily skin as well as dry skin can be sensitive! Harsh products not only make your skin irritated but can also cause flaking. The flaking will go naturally when you start to use mild products. If this doesn't happen then it is possible that you have a skin condition known as 'seborrhoeic eczema'. Your skin is usually irritated, red and can itch. For this you should see your Doctor or Dermatologist.
Another tip: it is often thought that people with acne have oily skin. This is not necessarily the case! Therefore have a good look at your skin.
(Dr. Jetske Ultee-Research Physician Cosmetic Dermatology)
Also read the blogs:
'A healthy barrier function, a healthy skin',
'Alcohol in skincare products; rather not',
'Enlarged pores stay enlarged pores',
'Paraben free cosmetics?' and
'A too clean skin'.